Entering Hare & Grace, it's immediately obvious that this isn't your run-of-the-mill eatery. The kitchen garden out front is a nice touch but certainly not one of a kind; however it's the interior, designed by Joost Bakker (of Greenhouse fame) and featuring heritage bluestone walls and stands of shrubs planted conspicuously on the ceiling, that makes this place truly stand out from the crowd.
Similarly, the menu will force some people out of their comfort zone. Dishes are divided into Composites (starters), Principals (mains), Accomplimains (get the picture?) and From the Grill, with an overriding philosophy of modern innovation, firmly rooted in classical cooking technique.
A simply titled roast onion salad is in fact whole braised baby onions with ethereal pillows of gruyere gnocchi and mint oil, all covered with an onion consomme clear enough to make a Frenchman weep. The mains follow a similar vein of intentionally vague descriptions, such as roasted kingfish, fried egg, hazelnuts, peas and sausage sauce. It's a hard ask for some to place such faith in a chef, but the dishes here are that much more enjoyable for the surprise of interpretation as much as pure taste.
Like most places that test the boundaries, Hare & Grace won't be for everybody. But in a food scene that has a tendency to stagnate a restaurant that pushes on is always a welcome addition.
Nick Eggert
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